BudBurst

I went to Bilbao for a long weekend, catching up with some old friends from winemaking days in nearby Rioja.  Hugely hospitable as is the Spanish way, I seemed to consume vast amounts of foie gras, jamon (Alita Iberica) and salt cod. They also opened many bottles of wine as we discussed how styles were rapidly changing in this enduring region.

There seems to be a definite trend for fruit forward, rich and thick wines quite different to the delicate, distinctive clear red cherry and oak wines I associate with Rioja. The locals I was with embraced this change and found the wines more powerful and pleasing. It's true they are luscious, lip smacking wines such as Rioja Santiago, Vendimia Seleccionada Alta Expression 2003 the name itself gives a strong message of intent. Similarly the Contino, Vina del Olivo 2001 had a new depth and strength deliberately pursued by the flamboyant winemaker Jesus Madrazon to capture the imagination of the young international market.

Still making wines more traditionally is the Muga dynasty. Their Prado Enea, Gran Reserva 1995 a stunning example of how Rioja made its reputation. Similarly the Muga, Crianza 2002 is romantically mellow and wonderfully easy to drink.

The new style reflects the growing trend for people to drink red wine outside a food context which was unusual even just a few years ago. The intensity of the fruit in the modern wines would make them harder to pair with the local dishes which so beautifully complement the traditional Riojas. However they can be gorgeous, with great purity and mouthwatering richness. They are also, importantly, well-balanced with enough acidity to keep them from turning flabby while maintaining weight.

Look out for my forthcoming article on the Marques de Riscal, Frank Gehry designed, Hotel & Spa.