BudBurst

I was asked by the lovely people at Market Kitchen if I would do a piece for them on matching fish and chips with wine. Now after the rather dubious horror, I mean honour, of representing India in the 'World Wine Cup', I mean how convincing can I be that I would rather be drinking Chardonnay from the Nasik Valley than Riesling from the Mosel?, I was a little concerned about their motive.

For you see far from thinking this is a comedy subject, I think it pertinent as well as fun. After all why shouldn't a food that gives so much pleasure be treated with some respect when it comes to the drink that goes with it?

And though it may be humble in cost, it can definitely be noble in execution - as a student I lived not far from Anstruther Fish Bar in Fife, an education in the art that can be Fish & Chips. There are good examples here in London, and I particularly love Faulkners on the Kingsland Road, my local and traditional to a tee. Ah yes.. tea.

There are those who would swear that the only valid accompaniment is a cuppa char and while I would not dispute its charm (although I would cock my little finger and say Earl Grey is a finer and more delicate match for the white flesh of the fish than Builders) it is an entirely different experience to fine wine as foil. No less valid, but no more either.

There is a time for whelks out of a polystyrene cup as your hair is being whipped into a frenzy by a howling gale on Brighton beach in February and there is a time for the sumptuous finery of Scott's of Mayfair with the most courteous waiters I have ever encountered and a plateau of fruits de mer that must have been caught by angels, riding on harps, straight out of the icy waters beyond the palm beaches of Heaven.

So what were my matches?

First up an old favourite of mine. Tio Pepe Fino Sherry, one of the finest drinks known to me. A salty, savoury, nutty character with the cleanest driest sea air palate. It is the perfect match in my opinion and replaces entirely the salt and vinegar component, perfectly blending the rich and savoury whole.

Next up was Ken Forresters Chenin Blanc from South Africa. The vibrant, juicy fruit giving more crowd pleasing flavour but still that acidity cutting through the fried richness while at the same time really accentuating the creamy and bold texture of the fish.

And finally...

A treat! Krug Grand Cuvée. What can I say, this is a magnificent wine and all of the tasters stopped for a moment just to savour it by itself because really even in a room full of people who love to talk, it silenced everyone and made us all smile at each other in a goofy I-should-be-more-professional-about-this kind of way, because it really is that good.

And this, my friends, was all about the batter. It was serious, rich, savoury, mealy, masculine, bold and batter-like. It is predominantly Pinot Noir based and that characteristic really comes through and yet... and yet it retains a finesse that elicits something between a sigh and a moan after almost every sip. It was a glorious match.

And there is something noble about the combination of Krug and Fish & Chips, especially if you're eating on your own with a half bottle next to you. It just feels like something really special happened to you.

But whatever you choose to drink remember, this is not just fast food, this could be the most romantic night of your life...!