BudBurst

On a searingly hot day I entered the vestibule of the Tate Britain and was instantly soothed by the cool, white stone. This oasis on Millbank by the river is one of  those buildings that just make you happy when you're in them. I love that a place so grand within is open and free to everyone.

The restaurant is famous for the Rex Whistler mural "In pursuit of Rare Meats" on all four walls. It's a bit odd sitting inside a painting, dark too but it does feel special. I looked, with a rubber-necking kind of fascination for horror, for the young black boy on a leash but couldn't locate him.

I had been invited to lunch by Malcolm Gluck of Superplonk fame. He had ordered a bottle of Egon Muller, Wiltinger Kapp Riesling Kabinett 1998. It was just the drink, at 8% alcohol it is light enough to have over lunch without affecting your planned afternoon. The honeysuckle warmth was balanced by limeflower and citrus,  mouthwatering acidity and that lovely lingering touch of sweetness at the end that this style of wine does so well.

That disappeared with such ease that we moved on to a haf bottle of Domaine Dujac, Morey-St-Denis 1999. Still a bright red cherry welcome from this wine but also evolved, soft truffleyness. Earthy and rich but still delicate, well-balanced and enticing.

 The winelist does itself a lot of favours by having such a skilfully chosen selection of half bottles. It's the best way to be able to try 2 or 3 different wines without getting sozzled or forking out so much that you don't go out for dinner again for ages. 

Malcolm was keen to make sure the bottle had been down in the cool cellar not the warmer restaurant and told me he chills his Burgundy in the fridge. He then asked for it to be decanted which is unusual but he also decants wine for ages, often overnight for the next evening - even whites! Says they evolve into something far more interesting.

I haven't had the foresight necessary to experiment with this theory but must try it out sometime. I used to do that with my vigneron neighbours' pretty tough Bordeaux which mellowed magnificently overnight, just in re-corked bottles though, not decanted, and they were young - the wines, not the neighbours.

If you go to Tate Britain for lunch (do), take some time to look around at the exhibitions and let me know if it made you feel happy too. If you want to read a more detailed review of the restaurant check out Malcolm's article: http://www.superplonk.com/spworldofwine/articles.asp?id=320