BudBurst

Tomorrow came and went as my 3 year old broke his arm and after spending the night in A&E he has required my full and undivided attention ever since. However he is now back at nursery so on to the next outstanding producer...

Haras de Pirque is a relative newcomer, their first vintage was in 2003. The vineyards are in the Upper Maipo Valley on a splinter range of the Andes mountains. The Commercial Vice-Persident Eduardo Matte is effusively charming and enthusiastic. He has a great respect for the established wine dynasties in Chile but is totally focused on the quality of the Haras wines and his ambitions for their future.

Again what struck me here was the consistency across the range and the pride taken, that you can taste in the glass. The Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2006 was nicely fresh and crisp with none of the overblown character so easily done. The Chardonnay Reserve 2005 had great integration of oak and fresh delicate fruit with a long, smoky finish. The Chardonnay Elegance 2005 had a ripe, rich, lemon-sherbet nose. Opulent even a bit tropical but elegant. Only 300 cases are made, a very modest quantity for Chile.

The Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005 won a gold medal in Chile and has a soupcon of Carmenere and Syrah added to it. It had a big ripe nose and was like blackberries dipped in dark chocolate with a good strong but supple structure. The Cabernet Sauvignon Elegance 2003 had a very inviting, developed yet still fresh nose. The fruit is huge but the framework supports it perfectly. The  Syrah Character 2004 had an earthy, animal warmth on the nose with a silky ripe, chocolate, spicy palate. Again, beautifully judged winemaking meant this huge surge was well-contained. Finally the Albis 2003, a joint venture with Italy's Antinori, a coup indeed to have been chosen as a partner to this legend in the business. This wine is looking to the future, it has a wondrous balance of ingredients to see it through to the long term. The satin fruit make it mouth watering already but the tight grainy textured coil promises great things to come.

All the wines are available from Friarwood Ltd 020 7736 2628.

And finally to something confusingly negative. First of all, this is the confusing bit for me, I have to say that this producer has been loudly praised  by several very well-respected (including by me) and senior figures in the trade. This is the third time I have tasted these wines this year and my opinion hasn't changed except that this time the wines showed even worse than before.

The producer is Matetic and the wine is the Syrah EQ 2004. The team behind Matetic is impressive with  biodynamic, winemaking and viticultural consultants on board since 2000. The wine though each time I have tasted it has been stinky, unclean, burnt and bitter tasting, with a thin mouthfeel and a nasty short finish.  Extreme, no? I just don't understand what everyone else is tasting. I guess it just goes to show the extraordinary differences there are between palates. The Pinot Noir EQ 2005 had a bright cherry, New World Pinot nose which was pleasing but the palate was watery, lacked structure and again there was a bitter short finish.

The whites were more successful in my opinion. The Sauvignon Blanc EQ 2005 was beautifully ripe with a hint of sweetness which was lovely with the tang of the Sauvignon. I did notice an odd finish though. The Chardonnay EQ 2005 was ripe, tropical and oaky. Weighty with good smoky fruit it was a commercially correct style but perhaps not one for purists.

Well, vive la difference! I will continue to taste the Matetic EQ range whenever I get the chance because I am truly baffled.

The range is available in limited form from Stone, Vine & Sun 01962 712351 or WineXcel 01685 871384.