Grüner Veltliner
Such loveliness in a glass. This is one of my favourite varieties and for so many reasons. Not only can it match so many different foods but is great as an aperitif. Like its nearest counterpart, Chardonnay, it comes in many different styles - not that often with oak, but ranging from steely clean to fruity and rich and opulent.
I have been trying a few of these recently - it always happens like that, don't you find? - and have been well rewarded. They are mainly lively with acidity, yet voluptuous and rich. With fruit notes of pear, peach and apricot and some spicy peppery edges it's very easy on the palate.
To match the Vietnamese (see Restaurant Reviews) I took a Sainburys Taste the Difference Grüner Veltliner 2005 from Weingut Huber - Markus Huber is the 10th generation of this winemaking dynasty - in the Traisental region of Austria.
The wine was pretty big, with rich melony and green apple attack and held together very well with lovely refreshing acidity. This wine was sparkling with life (not a sparkling wine, you understand) and worked very well with the food. It complemented the delicacy of the ingredients and the ripe fruitiness held up to the spices used. Great combination.
Other favourite Grüner Veltliners recently -
Weingut Allram, Grüner Veltliner Strasser Gaisberg 2004
Lenz Moser, Grüner Veltliner Prestige 2004
Weingut Jurtschitsch Sonnhoff, Grüner Veltliner Spiegel Reserve 2003
[At the Waitrose tasting yesterday I tried the Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Berg-Vogelsang 2005, which was peachy and spicy, with a delicate acidity that really lifted the fruit into something quite ethereal. There was plenty of substance in the layers that followed with wood smoke, hawthorn leaves and a lingering savoury finish. At £12.99 I think you get what you pay for. Added 20/10/06 ]
Have a hunt around and let me know if you find some good ones. I know Nick Dobson Wines has a great range...

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